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frenchkey

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1 hour ago, frenchkey said:

3mm plića remenica radilice

Remenica radilice nije uzrok, uzrok je prljava remenica zupčastog i manjak Nm i °. 

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E jbg, rekao je da ce stegnut sa cijevi od 6m ako hoću, ali da bi originalnu da mu nabavim jer ne može garantirat da se neće opet desit

Btw, na koliko se steže? 

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kakve veze ima koliko je debela remenica ako je dosta dubok navoj u radilici

problem jedino moze biti da vijak dode do kraja navoja prije nego stisne remenicu, a u tom slucaju se lako skrati vijak, a sumnjam da je to problem, i to se lako provjeri, zavidas vijak bez remenice i vidis do kud ide

 

btw si dobio novi vijak u setu zupcastog?

Edited by robyakarider
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58 minutes ago, frenchkey said:

E jbg, rekao je da ce stegnut sa cijevi od 6m ako hoću, ali da bi originalnu da mu nabavim jer ne može garantirat da se neće opet desit

Btw, na koliko se steže? 

K4M 760,761   crankshaft accessories
pulley bolt
40 Nm + 145˚
± 15˚

 

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1 hour ago, robyakarider said:

kakve veze ima koliko je debela remenica ako je dosta dubok navoj u radilici

problem jedino moze biti da vijak dode do kraja navoja prije nego stisne remenicu, a u tom slucaju se lako skrati vijak, a sumnjam da je to problem, i to se lako provjeri, zavidas vijak bez remenice i vidis do kud ide

 

btw si dobio novi vijak u setu zupcastog?

Da, jesam

 

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To je sve divno i krasno, ali ako su površine koje vijak steže masne, neće biti dovoljno trenja za zatezanje zupčanika zupčastog remena. 

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Hval na savjetu, napomenut cu mu to. 

Brake cleaner bi bio ok za odmastiti? 

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@direstraits i ostali, jedno praktično pitanje. 

Kako je učvršćena remenica zupčastog remena? Dali i ona nema kajlu ni konus, niti išta slično već to sve skupa drži vijak kroz remenicu kanalnog remena i zajedno steže uz nekakav prstenasti graničnik na radilici?

 

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Hvala na linku.

Ali kako onda može preskočiti 2 zuba kad nije dobro stegnuta remenica kanalnog, nije mi jasno...

Izgleda da starije verzije K4M ipak nemaju kajlu

s-l500.jpg

 

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zanimljiva Ruska stranica, mada mi Eset neda pristup pa sam ga privremeno isključio

https://cfrs.ru/en/zaschitaugony/k4m-na-kakie-mashiny-stavyat-dvigatel-reno-k4m-osobennosti-obsluzhivaniya-i.html

neki detalji:

The phase shifter (phase regulator) on the Renault 1.6 engine (K4M) usually does not go more than 100,000 km.

Phase regulator malfunctions are manifested by the following symptoms:

chatter during engine operation;

increased gas mileage;

engine power reduction;

the engine stalls immediately after starting.

 

Also common problems with the Renault 1.6 engine (K4M) include:

failure of ignition coils;

fuel injector contamination;

malfunction of the crankshaft position sensor;

air leaks through cracks or seals in the intake manifold;

oil leak on the crankshaft oil seal or valve cover gasket;

leak antifreeze on the pump seal.


Specific and rare engine failures of the Renault 1.6 (K4M) engine also include:

Destruction of the damper pulley of the crankshaft. This trouble did not occur in a small number of engines of the Spanish assembly.

Freezing moisture on the timing belt due to snow falling under the hood and melted on the timing case. Water flows to the timing belt, and then freezes overnight on it. When starting the engine, the rattle belt slips due to ice. As a result, the pistons hit the valves.

The Renault 1.6 engine (K4M) is simple and reliable, it easily walks at least 400,000 km. With proper maintenance, even in harsh conditions, this engine can travel twice as much (800,000 km), as evidenced by the extensive experience of its operation on Renault Logan in a taxi service.

 

Typical problems

Despite all the above advantages and simplicity of the device, the K4M engine in many car owners has earned a reputation for being problematic. There is a significant reason for this.

Pulley problems. In 2010, a batch of K4M engines with a defective damper pulley was discovered on the Russian market. “Unlucky" to the owners of Sandero and Logan: cars equipped with these engines at one moment found a shaft of black smoke from under the hood.

The cause of the malfunction was the crankshaft pulley that broke due to a collapsed damper spring. Often along with this, the timing case melted, there was a jump / shift of the timing, bending of the valves, damage to the cylinder head, tearing of the cylinders, damage to the engine pistons, etc. And this could happen on new machines, literally just from the passenger compartment. The problem was aggravated by the fact that if the breakdown occurred on the go, at speed, the driver lost the power steering, and the car turned into a poorly controlled projectile.

In total, a defect in 2010 was detected on approximately 100 cars. The overhaul period was, on average, about a month. The engine maker refused to acknowledge the trend towards marriage. And to this day, sometimes there are reports of a car breakdown on K4M with similar symptoms, although cases of failure cannot be considered widespread.

 

Timing belt  on a Renault 1.6 K4M engine must be changed every 60,000 km. At the same time, replacing the timing belt on this engine is made "as inconvenient as possible". That is, there is no key on the camshaft pulley (though not on all versions of this engine), and the fixing bolt must be tightened with the correct torque. There are no marks on the shafts, therefore, both the crankshaft and the camshafts must be set using clamps.

 

 

The compressor on the K4M engine.

With great desire, the PK-23 compressor can be added to the K4M motor, which will allow to inflate about 140-150 hp. The compression ratio of standard K4M engines is not too high, so the motor can easily withstand 0.5 bar.

To implement the planned engine tuning, you will need injectors from the Volga, shafts with a phase of 270-280, a straight-through exhaust. Well, of course, to configure and control the engine requires a control unit, for example - Abit.

Turbine for K4M engine 16 valves.

The system is similar to the system with a compressor, but instead of the PK-23, a TD04 turbine is installed. In reality, such engine configurations squeeze out just over 150 hp.

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odnio mu jučer drugu, naizgled istu remenicu, nije bio baš potpuno zadovoljan, našto sam mu rekao tvoje primjedbe. Kaže da će stegnuti

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Pitanje cime je stezao. Ako je neka mala baterijska udarna nije ni cudo sto se ovo desilo.  Remenicu radilice napadas pistoljem od 1000nm i drndas dok se saraf vise ne mice. Da ide polugom zatezat mora blokirat radilicu na zamasnjaku a opet ekipi se neda skidat kojekakve gluposti oko motora da to propisno odrade pa zavrsava ovako. Lijep primjer bez kajle je 1.3 cdti/jtd motor ali fiat se na takvom sistemu sjetio staviti kontra navoj na sarafu. 

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Preuzeo auto. Vijak stegnut na 4kg + 150°

 

Bte,jedan drugi meho mi je rekao da on to stegne na zracni pistolj pa koliko bude

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Možda baš taj dan nije ispustio vodu iz tanka kompresora ili je na pištolju okrenuo na keca i nije vrtio do kraja. Zato moment ključ i 150°.

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Ako vjerujes 100% pistolju da. Nije problem zategnut na  nm ako je pocetni moment mali. Stupnjeve se moze pistoljem lijepo se zacrta i znas do kud saràf mora ic. Dobijes istu stvar.

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ja sam na K7J zategnuo vijak na radilici sa pištoljom na najvećem momentu jer nisam je imao gdje blokirati.. (blokator radilice onaj kroz rupu u bloku se hoće savinuti)

nisam ga vadio odmah nego sam uzeo novi vijak dobiven sa garniturom, gore po navoju stavio još loctite plavog ljepila i prvo rukom stezao lagano da remenica lijepo sjedne u utor jer se njen zub zapikne između radilice i zupčaste remenice, i onda sam pištoljom zatezao do određenog momenta (možda pola), izvadio graničnik iz bloka, i pričekao da mi se kompresor napuni do max i onda opet napao vijak svim raspoloživim momentom dok se nije prestao okretati..

pištolj je iz peveca a kompresor nije neki veliki ali i nakon godinu i pol i 20000km je sve bilo ok, prodao auto itd..

Edited by ivan.martinko
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2 hours ago, ivan.martinko said:

blokator radilice onaj kroz rupu u bloku se hoće savinuti

Kenjcu bi rep iščupao, ćuskiju slomio, givikt pokvario. 🤣🤣🤣

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